![]() ![]() Would 2 minute presoak with constant inversion/aditation be overkill ? Scan at high res and see if there is any detectable difference. Then develop one presoaked and one as a control with no presoak. It would also knock any air pockets out of the reel. It would require a shorter period of time for the emulsion to swell. Still confused! What do listeners recommend? This is why I love film photography.straight forward question, many different answers. So, agitation during the soak is recommended, not "stand"? I always use the modified Ilford wash (5 - 10 - 20 - 40) with films that have a bit more of a dye cast to them. I don't presoak here and have never had any issues. I just wanted to provide a different view. ![]() Heck, even different batches of film can vary more than you would notice any variation due to your starting temp of the film. There are too many other variables that can mess this up. I just don't find that my stuff needs to be 100% exact every time. It brings the film to temp, and if you are striving for perfect consistency in B&W, it is worth it. Some developers (diafine) instruct you not do presoak.įor color however, a presoak is a necessity. I just think it is a waste of time for the most part. The water would inhibit the developer from entering the emulsion just like the developer inhibits water from entering the emulsion in this two bath process. If you flip this logic around with a presoak. A base (alkali) is added to the water to accelerate developing in the shadow area, and the residual developer almost instantly exhausts in the highlight area. The developer stays in the emulsion when the film is placed in the water. Adams presoaks, and he describes how the water increases processing time by 30 seconds in his book "The Negative." Water can also be used in a two bath developer (water as the second bath) that decreases contrast. Kq6up "But then again, pre-soaking allows the developer to more easily adsorb into the emulsion being that it is already wet." If the emulsion is already swollen with water, how will it make it easier for the developer to move into emulsion? A. At some point I may try a non-critical roll without a pre-soak, but I've been getting results I'm happy with the way I do it now (if it ain't broke.) I suggest to anybody who is new to developing to try it both ways and draw your own conclusions.Ībout as long as it takes for me to measure out and dilute the Rodinal. No chance for uneven development, especially if you are using short developing times. No thanks :o)īut then again, pre-soaking allows the developer to more easily adsorb into the emulsion being that it is already wet. So, I am adding an additional step in my processing that does not seem to benefit the final product, AND it makes my developing take longer. That is because the water in the emulsion keeps the developer out of the emulsion longer that if it were bone dry. Also, a presoak adds time to the development stage to build the same contrast. Having a water jacket to keep the temps even and from natural convection currents setting up seem to make the biggest difference in Br streaks.Īlso, when I do not do stand developing, I agitate very well, and I have NEVER had streaks from normal developing. I notice NO difference in bromide streaks. I even do stand development w/ out a presoak. I don't presoak :o) (Hears gasps from the crowd) I usually do one minute with constant agitation. A pre-soak here really helps to equalize temps between the developer and the tank.ģ5mm Tri-X, D-76 - I do inversions, and 180 degree rotations. ![]() Not a big deal in the summer, when my darkroom is always 20 C or warmer, but much more necessary in the winter, when it can be several degrees cooler than 20 C. I do it more to warm the tank than for anything. But the combo of Diafine + Tri-X + 35mm I later found is not my favorite. I too am by no means an expert but it seems to work pretty well.Īrthur, are you developing 35mm or 120? Alot of the streaking I experienced was due to the sprockets on 35mm due to lack of agitation. I usually pre-soak for about 2 minutes or so. Just trying to get a feel for how long I should keep it in the H2O for- I don't mind time, as long as it proves to be an effective approach. When I've cut corners and go too fast is when it happens. I generally do it until the water clears and haven't had trouble with drag. I'm by no means an expert, but I use Shanghai gp3 most of the time and the bromide pre wash can take forever. For those who home develop, and use a presoak, how long do you like to soak your negatives for? To possibly prevent bromide drag, which Dan Domme pointed out to me, I suffered recently on a roll, and to maybe reduce the magenta/purple cast showing up on my Tri-X negatives, I am going to add a presoak in distilled H2O for my processing. ![]()
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